15 Nelson Rd
020 8853 0602
by Gracie Spoon
Pistachios is crammed. Crammed with an army of school-age staff, crammed with small tables buckling with food, and crammed with gleaming retro-haired students. From amidst the mêlée of moving food and good skin, one European teen emerges to jot down two all-dayers (£4.75 each). Though we are fussy, she is unfazed (so, you don’t want beans? We’ll get you extra hash browns. Now you want extra hash browns? We’ll get you extra hash browns) and, very soon, we too have more breakfast than table.
Our neat portions are pared down to one egg, one sausage, and a few delicate scoops of the extras: tomatoes, bacon, silky mushrooms, the chips are just coming… Unarguably spot-hitting stuff. We eat. The tide of waiters group and regroup around us. KT Tunstall whoo-hoos in the background. Finally, the updates on our absent chips peak with an endearing admission that actually there are only six chips left, but they’re ours if we want them. And they are so nice about it, and the chips are so fresh, that we forgive Pistachios.
Although nothing to faint over, breakfast has been a cheerful affair: crispy in all the right places, runny in all the others. Much as in the case of KT and her whoo-hoos, it’s a well-worn truth that a little MOR approachability goes a long way. Although in the hands of a reviewer, ‘boringly faultless’ is the most cynical of insults, out there amongst the breakfast-buying public this kind of reliability sells steadily and wins Brit Awards.